Here in the nation’s capital, Washington, DC, our drinking water comes from a treatment plant fed by the Potomac River. Some of the things other than H20 which you might find from an analysis of your drinking water may include:

- Varying levels of Lead and Copper
- Chlorine (higher when WASA completes a chlorine flush of the system in the spring.)
- Disinfectant byproducts (caused by chlorine reacting with organic materials)
- Low levels of Coliform (bacteria)
- Low levels of Perchlorate (toxic chemical found in weapons and explosives)
- Certain pharmaceuticals

Like many older cities, D.C. does not have a separate storm sewer and sewage system. As such, the sewer system can easily be overwhelmed during torrential or prolonged weather events. When the sewer system becomes overwhelmed waste water backs up into the Potomac. The Potomac and the Anacostia (the other local river) also receive polluted runoff from streets and other impervious areas.

D.C. still has an ongoing issue of lead in the water caused primarily from the old lead water piping which were common until the 1970’s. Lead was also used to solder copper water pipes together. A recent (May 20, 2010) article in the Washington Post reports that the CDC, “Knowingly used flawed data to claim that high lead levels in the District’s drinking water did not pose a health risk to the public, a congressional investigation has found.”

We recommend that homeowners have their water tested and install the appropriate water filter for their situation. Note that water conditions change, so what’s in your water one week may not be true the next week or month.

The five broad groups of contaminates which need to be considered when installing any sort of water filtration system are (in no particular order): (1) chlorine and its byproducts, (2) heavy metals, (3) organic chemicals including pesticides and herbicides, (4) bacteria; and (5) cysts.

There are a number of water filtration systems and within each category there are generally a plethora of products on the market to choose some. Here’s a brief description of the water filtration systems on the market:

Carbon Filtration:
The most commonly used filtration system, but also paired with systems below as either a pre or post filter. They’re designed to eliminate foul tastes and odors, chlorine and chlorine byproducts and volatile organic compounds (VOC’s). Carbon acts a magnet for molecules of unwanted chemicals.
► Cost – Carbon filters, as a stand alone product, are the most inexpensive filter and are available in under sink, in sink and pitcher models (such as Brita). Under $100 for most units.
► Efficiency – Very energy and water efficient, but stand along carbon filters do not typically filter the water as well as the other methods below which incorporate Carbon filters as a pre and/or post filter. Efficacy depends upon the model and composition of the filter.
► Maintenance – Depends upon the model

Reverse Osmosis:
Reverse osmosis forces water through a semi-permeable membrane. Often, one or two post filters are used to further remove pollutants.
► Cost – Starting at $150 for countertop units and upwards of $500 for under sink units + installation.
► Efficiency – Produces between 2-15 gallons of drinking water. Up to 4 gallons of water are “wasted” per day flushing the membrane, but it requires no electricity.
► Maintenance – Replace pre/post filters and reverse osmosis filter every 6 months – 2 years depending upon model.
► Downside – Reverse osmosis takes almost everything out of the water, including minerals.

Distillation
Home units have two chambers; the first chamber boils the water leaving behind most of the contaminates and minerals. The steam condenses as clean water in the second chamber. Distillation removes 99.5 percent of the source water impurities, according to Water Tech Online, including nitrates, bacteria and heavy metals. A carbon post filter is often added for removing organic compounds.
► Cost – Countertop distillers start at $350 + installation; Automatic units start at $1500 + installation
► Efficiency – Little water is wasted, however it requires electricity. Produced anywhere from 3 to 11 gallons per day.
► Maintenance – Un-evaporated pollutants remaining in the boiling chamber need to be regularly flushed to the septic or sewage system. Calcium and magnesium scale collecting at the bottom of the boiling chamber needs to be removed by hand scrubbing or acid. [By the way, the same is true of your water heater. Your water heater should be flushed periodically year because scale builds up and reduces the effective size of the tank.]

Hollow Form Multibore Technology
A new technology from Aquacore, it removes particles as small as .02 microns using synthetic fibers that form a membrane. Like reverse osmosis, the membrane gets flushed clean periodically based upon settings on its “smart meter” Ultra filtration ensures water safety at point of entry into the home by removing cysts, protozoa, turbidity and algae.
► Cost – Pricy. Aquacore’s AC 10, whole home ultra filtration system costs $3500 + installation
► Efficiency – Produces 10 gallons of drinking water per minute. Uses only a minimal amount water to keep the membrane clean, but requires electricity.
► Maintenance – Cartridge needs to be replaced once every 3-5 years.

Compiled from the following sources:

1)-http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/05/19/AR2010051902599.html
2) http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/11/11/AR2008111101148.html
3) http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A33850-2004Oct14.html
4) http://www.epa.gov/dclead/
5) http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/07/18/AR2007071801956.html
6) www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A61555-2004Nov18.html
7) http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/story/2008/03/09/ST2008030901877.html
http://article.nationalreview.com/print/?q=Mjk2OTE2NDY2YmVjOGQ4ZGE4OTc0ODlhZTRkYTBmOWQ=
9) www.Ecologicalhomeideasmagazine.com
10) http://www.gem.msu.edu/pubs/msue/wq22p1.html
11) http://www.aquacore.com/
12) www.wqa.org

michael gotthelf

For centuries, going back to the Romans, the element lead (pb) has been been documented to be a poisonous chemical, particularly for the very young. In this country it has long been used as an additive in oil based paint. In Europe, lead paint was banned in the 1920’s and 30’s, but the US didn’t enact a ban until 1978. (Note that lead paint is still used for certain industrial applications including marine paint and the yellow lines on your neighboood street.)

Homes built before 1978 have a high likelihood of having lead based paint, particularly on woodwork since lead was an additive in oil based paint, not in water based paint. Note that some percentage of homes built after 1978 also have proven to have lead paint, even though lead paint was banned for residential use in 1978.

The new EPA rules require the following:

1 Contractors must provide their customers with the EPA lead brochure. (Not a new rule). http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/leadpdfe.pdf
2 Posting warning signs on job sites for homeowners and visitors
3 HEPA and wet vacuuming
4 Bans heat guns, grinders and sanders on woodwork unless equipped with HEPA filter.
5 Individual certification (Managers need to take a class and apply for certification.)
6 Disposable drop cloths
7 Containment areas to prevent spreading dust
8 Cleaning and waste disposal practices.
9 Verification and record keeping (3 years)
a. Notification of owner/occupant receipt of the Renovate Right pamphlet or attempt to inform.
b. Documentation of work practices.
c. Certified Renovator certification, and proof of worker training.
10 Exemptions:
a. Home was built after 1978.
b. Disturbing less than 6 sft.
c. House or components test lead free by a Certified Risk Assessor, Lead Inspector or Certified Renovator

Like asbestos before it, lead represents the proverbial feral cat that got out of the bag and then proliferated and wreaked havoc.

While it should be lauded for its work to finally address head on the issue of what happens when a remodeling contractor rips apart a home draped in lead paint, the resolution is arriving decades after the problem.

While it’s hard to guess what will be the next “lead paint” or “asbestos” you can be sure that at some point there will be something else that we all have in our homes. In the delicate balance between the duty of government to protect its citizens and the duty of industry to turn a profit for its shareholders, don’t hold your breath waiting for the right answer.

Or perhaps you should hold your breath. Formaldehyde is a likely candidate and an example of another widely used chemical which is known to cause serious health effects. It is classified as a known human carcinogen and can cause respiratory distress, depression, coma, renal failure, gastrointestinal damage, etc. Formaldehyde is a naturally occurring in many things including wood and urine. In its man made form, industry widely uses it in all manner of industrial and consumer products. This includes everything from insulation, cigarettes, pressed board cabinets and melamine counters to that wrinkle free shirt on your back. (That’s one of the reasons you wash clothes before you wear them. You wash your fruit before eating it; you should wash your fruit of the loombs before wearing them.) Building products, particularly variants of pressed board contain varying amounts of formaldehyde.

In 1982 US Consumer Safety Product Administration called for a ban of Urea-Formaldehyde, though it did not result in a ban in the U.S. Europe, also, has not banned urea-formaldehyde.

The other variant of formaldehyde used in building products, phenol-formaldehyde, is somewhat less toxic. Urea formaldehyde off-gasses at a slower rate than phenol formaldehyde. However because the less toxic variant is a bit more costly industry often chooses to use the more toxic variant for their resins and additives. A ban of urea formaldehyde would cause small cost increases for construction but should have the opposite effect on health care costs.

Remember those 145,000 formaldehyde laden FEMA trailers purchased by FEMA with $2.7 Billion of no-bid contracts for survivors of the Katrina hurricane? In February of 2010, our Congress came up with the bright idea of sending them to Haiti. Recently they were sold.

http://gsaxcess.gov/htm/fema/doc/CDC%20Formaldehyde%20Exposure%20Reference.pdf
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/formalde.html
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/03/07/AR2007030702628.html
http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2010/feb/01/us-lawmakers-push-fema-trailers-for-haiti/

The owner of this upper Northwest DC single family home had been renting it out to a group of recent college graduates and decided it was time to return to this wonderful DC neighborhood.

[When they grow a little older, the tenants will surely reminisce about this, their first adult abode: the front door was missing both handle and lock so they used the side door; the kitchen functioned mostly for beer storage; one of the tenants lived in a large closet and the two other rooms were little bigger. The home was dark, drafty and without any insulation. The sole bathroom needed bleach and a sledgehammer.]

After hiring an architect who proposed tearing down the house and building new, Landis Construction, a Design/Build firm, was retained to redesign the home. A renovation suited the client’s budget. The project focused on quality of space rather than quantity. Her goals include a much more energy efficient home with comfortable and more open spaces tailored to her personal lifestyle. From the outset, her wish list included a geo-thermal heating and cooling system.

[see below as-built/demo plan]

After our first round of schematic design, the already modest (15’x22’) addition shortened from almost 15 feet to 8 feet so that the budget would accommodate the geothermal heating system. Because of the thoughtfulness of the design of the interior space, the 8 additional feet was sufficient for the homeowners needs. The 150 square which the homeowner lopped off of the initial design also represents space she doesn’t need pay to heat and cool or clean.

During the design process, we looked not just at the potential new space, but at underutilized space in the home. At the first floor a wall between the existing kitchen and dining room was removed to open the floor plan. The existing front door had opened into the center of the house. To create a more defined entry area and living room, we relocated the door to the side and reworked the windows at the front façade. Brick was carefully toothed in to make the door location look original.

At the second floor the bedrooms and existing bathroom were reconfigured to create a guest bedroom and a larger master bedroom with a substantial closet with laundry center and larger master bathroom. The homeowner chose a unique Japanese style seated soaking tub which we integrated with a shower area.

The project had numerous Green features including:

• A new Geo-thermal heat pump system with one vertical well in the rear yard.
• Ductwork sealed with mastic and carefully sized using Manual J & D calculations.
• Icynene foam insulation throughout including the attic rafters, exterior walls and band boards.
• At least 40% of debris (by weight) was recycled by our roll off dumpster provider, Environmental Alternatives (EAI).
• The eaves on the south face of the house were deepened over the windows to provide shade from summer sun.
• A new attic fan was installed to pull air through the house during temperate months. By installing an attic fan in the ceiling of the first floor (rather than in an exterior wall) and using an attic window to allow air to escape, we avoided interrupting the attic’s thermal envelope.
• Ceiling fans in bedrooms and common areas.
• We built custom kitchen counters with Forbo Marmoleum with a wood edge detail. (Marmoleum is a resilient and completely natural product made from Linseed oil.)
• Fusiotherm water piping throughout the house.
• New Pella energy star clad wood windows throughout the home.
• Low VOC paints, caulks and adhesives. Bon-Kemi low VOC polyurethane on all floors.
• Compact Fluorescent lighting.
• Energy Star appliances.
• Low flow plumbing fixtures.
• IKEA cabinets – no added formaldehyde boxes and low VOC finish.
• Energy star exhaust fans in the bathrooms on timer switches.
• An integrated vegetable steamer at the kitchen sink provides energy efficient, healthy meals.

Like many projects, the design process carefully balanced budget with the owner’s many objectives and wishes. As noted above, the addition was made a bit smaller than during the first round of design. The original selection of tile flooring in the kitchen and addition was replaced with oak flooring to match the rest of the house. IKEA cabinetry was selected for their green features and their aesthetic, but also to accommodate the budget.

The end result is a home without any feeling of compromise, at once cozy and commodious, but generously proportioned, energy efficient and healthy. The homeowner is very happy with her home. She enjoys hosting a dinner club now and loves the praise she receives.

She is also delighted with her decision not to tear down the house and add it to a landfill, as her previous architect had suggested. As is often the case, the greenest innovation was to do little rather than much.

To see photographs of this project cut and paste the following link into your browser:
http://www.landisconstruction.com/our_portfolio/g_05.htm

Along with several interesting and relatively short pitches by suppliers touting their product’s green credential, three speakers offered their informed perspectives on Green Building.

Peter Yost is the Technical Director of www.greenbuildingadvisor.com and was a very engaging speaker. Think of your favorite lecturer or professor in college. The Greenbuildingadvisor website is an authoritative and amazingly extensive source of information and discussion on all aspects of building. The website is non-advertorial and relies on a subscription program for funding. Any renovator or builder looking to produce a smarter and higher quality product should subscribe and use this website. There is a good deal of free content to give you a taste of what’s behind the pay wall, so check that out.

Peter Pfeiffer of Barley & Pfeiffer architects in Texas, the sole speaker invited back from last year, also gave an engaging and illuminating talk. His view of how your remodeling or construction dollar should be spent is a rational and pragmatic approach based upon the idea of the food pyramid. At the bottom of the pyramid (representing how you should spent most of your dollars) are the lowest cost most effective items such as insulation and durable smart construction details. At the top of the pyramid are what he and others referred to as “Eco-Bling.” These include PV solar panels, Geo-thermal heating systems and Solar Hot water systems, etc. “Renewables” have their place he said, but the focus and dollars of construction and renovation should first be on durability, energy efficiency and building health (particularly in strategies to control humidity). Mr. Pfeiffer was featured in a Washington Post article in December of 2009. http://www.washingtonpost.com/
wpdyn/content/article/2009/12/03/AR2009120305116.html

During his talk Mr. Pfeiffer projected an interesting pie chart showing the lifecycle costs of a home broken down into the following categories: financing, construction, maintenance and insurance, alterations and Energy. While the construction costs of the home are 15% of its total cost, energy is 27% and maintenance and insurance are 23%. Alterations and improvements are 21%. (see above) The following three conclusions can be drawn:

(1) While fundamental issues of durability, energy efficiency, comfort and quality are determined during the design and planning processes, the costs associated would not even show up on this pie chart.
(2) Do not scrimp on the quality of a home’s initial construction or its renovation. Choose the best materials and systems you can afford. Over time, durability for a home is like health for a person.
(3) Make the home as energy efficient as possible.

The first speaker of the day was Chuck Miller, principal of Miller Custom Homes in the Tidewater region of Virginia. Mr. Miller built the first EarthCraft home in his area and builds both homes on spec and custom homes. Also an engaging speaker, Chuck discussed his experience with building Green Homes with a focus on energy efficiency.

Chuck made the interesting and controversial assertion that a large home can be a green home. He uses a formulation of approximately 800 square feet per occupant. According to the NAHB, the average home size in 2000 was 2,330 sft. In 1970 the average home size was 1,400 square feet and the average household size was 3.14*. If you look at the last census, (2000) the average household size was 2.59 people. Chuck’s formulation is about right on average and even a little low. That said, it is debatable whether after the 3.14’th person in a home, each person needs 800 more square feet. In the spirit of Sarah Susanka, we would recommend putting your resources into quality first then quantity.

* From US RITA website

Without necessarily thinking about it too much, you can go to your local counter install and pick out a stone which is mined in Pakistan, for example. It’s an amazing world we live in! A huge amount of energy goes into not only cutting and extracting huge chunks of stone from deep within the ground, but into slicing the stone into useable slabs, polishing it, shipping it around the world, cutting it to fit over your cabinets and trucking it over and installed in your home. In sustainability terms this represents an awful lot of “embodied energy.”

Likewise, if you choose an abundant, renewable and relatively locally available material which is not durable or appropriate for the intended location and it needs to be replaced several times more often than the aforementioned granite counters, then that may be an even less sustainable choice.

Below, we’ve put together a brief summary of some the many available materials with their pros and cons, both in terms of durability and environmental sustainability.

3form
Resin and recycled product based. Not heat resistant. Can be repaired. Translucent colors available. Some materials are imported to the USA. http://www.3-form.com/ $$$-$$$$

Butcher Bock
Can be made from FSC hardwood. Bamboo butcher bock is also available. Wood is a renewable resource. Manufactured locally by woodworkers everywhere. Needs to be sealed periodically, though sealer can have health benefits. Can be repaired and used as a cutting surface. Requires maintenance. $$-$$$

ECO by Cosentino
Non porous and does not require sealing. Made from 75% recycled materials including mirrors, glass, bottles, porcelain and glass & corn based resin. Substitute for engineered stone. Cradle-to-Cradle certified. Cosentino is a Huge Spanish corporation which also manufacturers Silestone. US manufacturing plant in Texas means slabs use lots of gasoline to get to DC. http://www.ecobycosentino.com $$$

Engineered woods including Kirei Board, Wheatboard, Plyboo, Dakota Burl, etc.
Sustainable materials when appropriate material is paired with appropriate application. In many cases, less expensive than other materials. Can be installed by a carpenter. Not heat resistant or moisture resistant in many cases or as durable as some other alternatives. May be more maintenance intensive. Needs to be sealed. May not be suitable for kitchen or bath locations. $-$$

Laminates – Wilsonart, Formica, etc.
Laminates are made of high density plastic applied to plywood. They are an inexpensive choice, but are petroleum based and not considered to be a sustainable material. $

Linoleum - Forbo Marmoleum, Armstrong
Linoleum, unlike laminate, is a renewable resource made from linseed oil. While it is more typically used for flooring, a good carpenter can made a striking countertop with Linoleum on a plywood base. Linoleum can be repaired, is durable, affordable and can be recycled. An excellent choice. See Linoleum counters on a Landis Construction project at the following link: http://www.landisconstruction.com/our_portfolio/g_05.htm
$-$$

Natural Stone – Granite, Marble, Soapstone
Granite, marble and Soapstone are beautiful and highly durable and there are literally hundreds of colors in a rainbow of colors and textures. Jumbo environmental footprint and embodied energy. Stone typically needs to be sealed. Marble is prone to chipping and staining and extreme heat can damage the finish. Some stones are rumored to emit radon. $$-$$$$

Ice Stone
Made from recycled glass in a cement matrix. Made in New York. Cradle to Cradle Gold Certified. http://www.icestone.biz/ $$$$

New River Concrete Countertops
Manufactured local to DC Metro Area. Made from reclaimed river aggregate and other recycled content from dredging operations. Custom Fabricated. Heat and stain resistant. $$$
www.newriverconcretecountertops.com/

Paperstone
100% Post consumer waste made of paper and resin. Shipped from Washington State (not local to DC). Heat and stain resistant. Structural. Can be fabricated and installed by a carpenter. www.paperstoneproducts.com $$-$$$

Quartz – Silestone, Zodiaq, Cambria, Caesarstone Quartz counters can in some cases contain some recycled content depending upon color and manufacturer. Quartz has a high embodied energy from the manufacturing and mining process and from shipping, but is a greener choice than granite. Some quartz counters do not need to be sealed. Quartz is durable, heat resistant and scratch resistant. $$-$$$$

Richlite
Made from wood fiber. Two products contain recycled content. Shipped from Washington State (not local to DC). Heat and stain resistant. Structural. Can be fabricated and installed by a carpenter. $$-$$$ http://www.richlite.com/countertop/

Squak Mountain Stone
Fibrous cement comprised of recycled paper, recycled glass, fly ash and cement. May be maintenance intensive. Premade slabs need to be cut to size like granite. Need to be sealed $$$

Subterra Cork
Engineered cork product. 25”x36” sheets can be seamed with wood glue. Needs to be sealed. Non structural. Not recommended for kitchens. Cork is a renewable resource from the bark of the cork oak. This can be installed by a carpenter. $$

Tile – Porcelain and Ceramic
Tile can be utilized to make a durable counter that is also heat and stain resistant. Many tiles are available with high recycled content. Though heat resistant, tiles are more prone to cracking than some other materials. Porcelain is typically stronger and more durable than ceramic. Large grout lines can be a problem for staining. More popular in the West and Southwest than in the DC area. $$

Michael Gotthelf – Landis Construction

Landis Construction won a NARI Metro DC COTY (Contractor of The Year) Finalist award in the category of Green Remodeling Entire House for its LEED-H platinum level.

When you close your eyes and imagine a “Green House,” you may get an image of either a hot house for growing tomatoes, or a super modern boxy structure with solar panels on the roof. Our “Green House” renovation took place in vigilantly historic Georgetown and proves that green construction and historic renovation can blend together with extraordiany results.

Part of the difficulty of a “Green Home” goes to the very question of what is a green home. Several third party organizations such as the US Green Building Counsel, with its LEED program, have addressed this issue by creating a system of metrics and a third party planning and evaluation system for certifying a home’s level of green. Through LEED’s rigorous planning, testing and documentation process, special attention was paid from design through completion of construction to ensure the home: (1) is exceedingly well constructed; (2) greatly exceeds current energy efficiency standards; (3) manages water resources; (4) promotes healthy indoor air quality (IAQ); and (5) produced a limited waste stream during demolition, construction and the life of the home.

The project all started when Landis Construction’s clients, the Walters, purchased a relatively neglected 100+ year old home with the goal of transforming it into just such an example of Green Construction meets Historic. With some research, they decided to make the investment in a LEED-H certified house.

As Landis’ first LEED certified project, this renovation produced many challenges we had never encountered before.

Four of the biggest green related challenges came from:

(1) Integrating 21st century building science into a historically protected 19th century home.
(2) The LEED process required us to fundamentally change the way we go about designing, planning and producing a renovation. LEED puts significant emphasis on the planning, designing and documenting portion of the project. Everyone involved in this project entered this project with a mindset open to learning the principals of sustainable design and construction.
(3) During the project, we expended a large amount of time and effort educating ourselves and our trade partners and vendors about the fundamentals of sustainable design and construction.
(4) The documentation requirement of the LEED process is not required on standard remodeling projects. During this process we were required to complete:
a. Durability Report – Documentation that a number of best practices were followed including flashing, air sealing, proper installation of insulation, some structural details along with water infiltration prevention detailing.
b. Duct Blaster Test – ensuring ductwork was properly sealed.
c. Blower door test – documenting the improvement of air leakage before and after, as well as to ensure that we had achieved a consistently tight thermal envelope.
d. Commissioning of HVAC system included balancing all of the air supplies and returns and verifying that all equipment was working at or above manufacturer’s specifications.
e. Submissions for LEED platinum – producing specific documentation for every point (there were dozens of them making up the 102 points we received) including photographs, manufacturers’ specifications, receipts, and written verification from third party testers.

Below are highlights of some of the “green” strategies employed in the renovation of this home.

Demolition, Excavation, and Site Work:
• Deconstruction
• Donation of salvageable materials
• Recycling of construction and demolition waste

Concrete and Block Foundations:
• Concrete with high fly-ash content

Rough Framing
• Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified dimensional lumber throughout
• Borate-treated, FSC dimensional lumber
• FSC, formaldehyde-free plywood for subflooring
• No added formaldehyde OSB board for sheathing
• No-VOC adhesives
• Optimum Value Engineered (Advanced) Framing Techniques were employed to save wood, limit thermal bridging and optimize size of insulation cavities
• A number of engineered wood beams in the house were used instead of steel.

Exterior Windows and Doors
• Historically-correct Energy Star Jeld-Wen windows and doors at rear and side of the house.
• Restored original front façade windows re-weatherstripped for energy efficiency with high quality wood storm windows.

Exterior Finish: Trim, Siding, Soffits
• Hardi-plank siding salvaged from side of neighbor’s addition was reinstalled at the new rear elevation.

Roofing
• New, sun-reflective “cool roof”

Masonry: Brick or Stone Veneer, Chimneys
• Salvaged historic bricks

Plumbing
• Fusiotherm piping was used throughout rather than copper
• Highly water-efficient bath and kitchen faucets, toilets and showerheads
• Solar thermal hot water

HVAC
• Very high efficiency (96% efficient) gas furnace
• Very high efficiency (21 SEER) AC unit
• Ducts sealed with mastic rather than tape to minimize leaks
• Ducts kept sealed during construction to minimize contamination
• Energy Recovery Ventilator installed to bring in fresh air and pre-heat or pre-cool that air with the exhausted air.
• Very high 16-MERV air filters installed to maximize removal of air contaminants

Electrical
• LED lighting throughout home in the form of recessed cans and under-cabinet lighting
• Some CFL and fluorescent tubes used in closets and stairwells

Insulation
• Demilec open-cell, high soy-content spray foam for non-basement walls and roof rafters.
• Demilec closed-cell, high soy-content spray foam for basement walls.
• Careful air sealing throughout the house around all penetrations

Gypsum Wallboard
• High recycled content gypsum and paper wallboard
• No-VOC joint compound
• No-VOC drywall adhesive
• Drywall scraps were recycled

Fireplace
• Closed-combustion, low-emission, high-efficiency, gas fireplace

Flooring: Hardwood, Vinyl, Carpet
• No carpet used
• Engineered salvaged heart pine flooring installed on middle and upper floors
• Solid, woven bamboo installed in basement
• Low and no-VOC adhesives and/or finishes used on the flooring

Stairs, Railings & Interior Trim
• Interior stair systems used all FSC and salvaged woods (This was the first ever built by our partner stair company.)
• Exterior stair and railing wood was either borate-treated pine (for structure) or locally salvaged (Bethesda, MD) and milled white oak for other components
• Interior trim was locally milled from urban forested lumber (Poplar trees certified as being locally salvaged by our sawyer/miller).

Tile: Walls and Floors
• Local and/or recycled content tiles installed in bathrooms, foyer and laundry areas

Painting: Interior and Exterior
• Green Seal certified primers and paints

Cabinets
• Cabinetry – Greentech super green cabinets.

FINAL RESULTS
The renovated home honors the elegant detailing and finishes of its historic period. However, below the surface, the home boasts many cutting edge building technologies. The house is more than twice as energy efficient as a home constructed to today’s energy code. The home is durable (low maintenance) and operating costs will be very minimal for many years. Because of the building materials and finishes used and the HVAC energy recovery ventilator, the air quality in the home is superior.

The clients are very happy that their home achieved a high LEED platinum rating (102 points, 9 points over the threshold). The homeowners have also more than satisfied their LEED educational requirements, by having several well attended events at the home and more are planned.

With its generous well-proportioned spaces, rational flow, and openness this historic and sustainable home will provide current and future owners with a wonderful place to live and welcome friends.

http://projects.nytimes.com/toxic-waters

Like many cities, Washington, DC has an aging sewer infrastructure which has not been updated to keep pace with growth in Washington. During a prolonged or torrential downspout, DC’s storm water system can be easily overwhelmed. Storm water runoff is exacerbated by impermeable groundcover including buildings, streets, patios and parking lots. Runoff water goes untreated into the areas waterways including Rock Creek, the Anacostia and Potomac and contributes to pollution in these bodies of water. It should be noted that this same water comes back to us as drinking water.

What’s forgotten in all of this is the fact that when considering a new patio or driveway or even an addition there are many responsible options to limit runoff. For example:

(1) Permeable pavers allow water to infiltrate to the earth.
(2) Flagstone patios can be set on stone dust rather than a concrete base.
(3) Cisterns and rain barrels can be installed to collect storm water coming off your roof. This water can then be used for landscape watering.
(4) Driveways can be constructed with permeable concrete, a relatively new. http://www.perviouspavement.org/
(5) Leach fields and dry wells can be integrated seamlessly into almost any landscaping plan.

New and old technologies and storm water management strategies such as the above can help. At this point, the fee is calculated by assessing homeowners one “Equivalent Residential Unit” (ERU). Businesses are assessed based upon the amount of impermeable land area they control. A shopping center with a big parking lot, for example, will pay a lot more than a mom and pop shop. This seems fair and correct. Homeowners get taxed at the same rate based upon a statistical average.

While I can appreciate WASA’s new fee as both necessary and a step in the right direction, they do not seem to have a mechanism in place to reward individuals and businesses which take extra effort to control water runoff. The tax is a “tailpipe solution” to a growing problem. Without an incentive or disincentive, all we can do is shrug and look forward to more taxes in the years to come when the problem gets worse. WASA should consider a tax credit for responsible individuals and businesses that make a concerted effort to help.

Better yet, WASA can use its clout to lobby for legislation to require what are now considered to be “alternative” materials and storm water strategies.

M Gotthelf

http://www.dcwasa.com/customercare/iab.cfm

http://www.remodelgreendc.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/Energy-Incentives1.pdf

compiled by Michael Gotthelf

by Michael Gotthelf

During the first half or so of the 20th century, when energy was relatively inexpensive and insulation and weather-proofing were relatively unknown, indoor air quality was not much of an issue. This is because the homes of that era naturally replaced air through cracks in windows and walls. Since mid century, homes have become increasingly tighter. The increasing popularity of foam insulation and more effective air sealing practices has increased this trend.

The building and energy codes over time have ever increasingly required that new homes and modifications to existing homes be constructed in a much more air tight manner. Poor indoor air quality can be an unintended consequence of current energy efficient construction if careful planning and consideration are not undertaken.

In a poorly built or maintained home, moisture and mold, carbon monoxide, VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds) can easily build up within the home to make the air less healthy than a smoggy day outside in a big city.

A home needs to breath. It needs to change out the stale air of breathing and living and also the build up of particulate matter and gases from all manner of sources within the home for fresh air. If a house was made too tight, it will require mechanical (or passive) ventilation to provide a healthy quality of air. There are many ways to do this. A fresh air makeup can be easily added to a HVAC system. For an additional cost, an Energy Recovery Ventilator can be added to capture some of the energy lost be expelling conditioned air to the exterior. (Note that before you invest in an ERV, though, there are other investments you may want to consider for a higher energy saving return on investment.) Remember to open your windows in the spring and fall and when the humidity and pollen count is not too high; the air outside is probably cleaner than the air inside.

To determine with some certainty whether your home requires mechanical ventilation, you may want to get a blower door test. A blower door test will tell you how tight your home is and can assist inform your remodeling decisions particularly related to the home’s energy efficiency. Think about getting a blower door test in conjunction with planning for a renovation.

For more information about blower door tests, see:
http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/energy_audits/index.cfm/mytopic=11190

MOISTURE & MOLD
• The building code requires a bath fan or a window in each bathroom for good reason. Make sure each and every full bathroom has a bath fan, ducted to the exterior, not into the attic. Install fans with a timer to allow the fan to run long enough after a bath or shower to properly vent humidity from the room.
• You may not think of it, but top loading washing machines add a lot of humidity to the home. When it’s time to replace your washer, choose a front loading, energy and water efficient model instead of a top loading one.
• Make sure your gutters are properly sized, clean and your downspouts direct water away from the home. Ensure your property is graded to direct water away from your foundation. This will limit water infiltration into your basement.
• Ensure your crawl space has a proper vapor barrier on the floor or better yet, a slab. Crawl spaces need to be either insulated and conditioned or properly ventilated. Insist that your contractor get this right!
• We do not recommend wall vapor barriers, especially in an environment such as in Washington, D.C. In a cooling environment such as up North, where human activity in the home leads to a good deal of humidity, a vapor barrier is sometimes installed inside of the insulation.
• If you still have persistent humidity in your basement, set up a dehumidifier, hard piped to a drain.

VOLITILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS
• Remember those FEMA trailers [http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/14011193/] provided to victims of hurricane Katrina? The formaldehyde laden plywood and insulation which sickened so many people, is not much different from what’s used by many contractors without much thought. Though formaldehyde forms naturally in wood, it is also a component of glues used in plywood. Insist your contractor uses CDX (exterior grade pressed) plywood instead of OSB (oriented strand) for sub-floors since CDX contains less added formaldehyde. See: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/formalde.html
• Insist on low or no VOC paints and caulks from your contractor. Acrylic paint technology is improving by the year.
• Drywall is often glued as well as being fastened with screws. Many commercial drywall adhesives contain nasty chemicals such as xylene. Insist that your drywall contractor uses adhesives with low VOC’s.
• Choose water based wood floor finishes rather than oil based ones. There are several excellent low VOC products available.
• Choose kitchen cabinetry made from plywood (CDX) rather than particle board.
• Make sure that if you or your contractor uses fiberglass insulation for your renovation, it is the formaldehyde free type such as from John Manville.

GAS APPLIANCES
• Ensure your gas appliances (cook-tops, fireplaces, water heaters, dryers, furnaces, etc) are operating properly and are properly vented to the outside.

FIREPLACES
• That nice smell that emanates from the fireplace in winter is not really good for you. In addition to carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide, wood burning fireplaces can bring into your home unhealthy particulate matter in the form of smoke. http://www.epa.gov/woodstoves/healtheffects.html

ATTACHED GARAGES
• Attached garages contribute to poor indoor air quality throughout the home and are not recommended. Install an exhaust fan in your garage to duct carcinogens from your cars exhaust to the exterior; avoid parking your car in a garage or best of all, do not build a garage that is attached to your home.

DUST & CARPETING
• Avoid wall to wall carpeting. If you’ve ever lived with hardwood floors or tile you know how much dust you can sweep up in a week. If you’ve ever removed carpeting from a house, you may also know how much can collect in carpets, despite frequent vacuuming.
• Install a HEPA filter attached to your HVAC system or a media filter high MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value). Look for a filter with MERV rating of 10 or higher.

LEAD
Lead paint wasn’t completely phased out until 1978. Know that if you have house built before 1978 and especially one built before 1960, you can anticipate your home has some lead paint. For your safety and the safety of your children, ensure your painting contractor takes all necessary precaution when prepping and sanding old walls.
http://www.epa.gov/lead/

ASBESTOS
Asbestos is a naturally occurring compound, named by the ancient Greeks and used since antiquity for everything from fabric to more recently, shipbuilding, drywall compound, roofing and siding, insulation and floor tiles. It may come as some surprise that Asbestos was not banned in the US until 1989, though there was good scientific data going back decades and anecdotal evidence much further that asbestos is cancer causing. Asbestos is still used in the developing world.

The history of asbestos is emblematic of the glacial pace of change when money and big business are involved.

Many, many homes still have asbestos, most commonly as siding and basement floor tiles, but also pipe insulation. Before determining whether your asbestos should be removed, consult a professional. If asbestos is in a place which is not likely to be disturbed, in some cases it may be better to leave it. Products such as pipe insulation can be encapsulated as well as removed. Asbestos must be removed by a trained and qualified specialty abatement contractor.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asbestos
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/asbestos.html

For more information about indoor air quality, visit the EPA website and World Health Organization website.

http://www.who.int/indoorair/en/
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/

Also we recommend the book Green Remodeling by David Johnston